J'adore France

So I ended up going to the wrong airport. Could happen to anyone, right? Right... Wait--let me explain! The only other time I flew from London to France (Paris), I left from Heathrow, so I assumed it would be the same. The worst part about it, though, was I even got out the ticket to show Elizabeth and didn't notice that I was supposed to go to Gatwick. Oh, well! I got the next flight and arrived three hours late to Strasbourg.

This was the weekend I've been planning for ages: a chance to meet up with my dear French flatmate from Swansea, Laurence, and her boyfriend, Lionel. If you'd like, now's a good time to refer to the photos to see what everyone looks like, and to get a sense of everywhere I went.

And went everywhere I did! For those of you who don't know, Alsace (see map) and its neighbouring region of Lorraine have been passed from Germany to France and back again for centuries. Way back in the Middle Ages some of my family came from Alsace-Lorraine, but something tells me they were just Germans living on the other side of the border! The German influence can clearly be seen: placenames abound with harsh German syllables, places like Geispolsheim (where Lionel lives) and Kaysersberg (a village we visited). Interspersed are 100% French names, creating an interesting contrast and the feeling that this part of France is just as different from the rest of the country as Brittany (with its Celtic Breton influence). For you must remember that people in Alsace speak Alsatian!

That was one of my favourite parts of the trip: hearing Alsatian spoken. It was Lionel's first language--he didn't learn French until school. It's a Germanic language, but much hybridized with French. Laurence can speak French and German (and English, and a bit of Italian and Spanish too), so she can understand Alsatian although she can't speak it. Which is a problem because Lionel's grandfather doesn't know French! He grew up speaking Alsatian, and then WWII happened so he never went to school to learn French. He reads the newspaper in German. I find it fascinating that so recently someone entirely French could grow up not learning it.

But French they are. I kept making snide comments about things sounding German (such as Lio's village, Geispolsheim--he complimented me on being able to pronounce it correctly the first time, because not many French people can. "It's because English is a Germanic language," I quipped). The buildings look like something out of the Black Forest, and at the Christmas Market there were those little wooden clock-like objects that move around that look German. And the national dish of Alsace is sauerkraut. Except in French it's "choucroute." Because, like I said, they're French. Alsatian first, French second, German never. Lionel doesn't even like speaking German that much. He can, of course, since he grew up 20 miles away from the border. Which brings me to the fact that...

I WENT TO GERMANY!!!

So what if it was just for 15 minutes?! (That's the amount of time I went to Toronto once.) I saw signs in German! I saw people walking along--who were most likely German! And--I saw the Rhine! AND the Black Forest (le Foret Noir) from a distance! I had no idea Lio lived so close--he's halfway between Les Vosges and the Black Forest.

This is why I love Europe. I can visit two countries in the space of a weekend, and an hour-and-a-half flight later, arrive home.

And oh, how I love France. Perhaps it's because both times I've spent there it's been with Laurence and a wonderful French family (I stayed a week with her family in Pays-de-la-Loire, and this time was with Lionel's family). The French are so hospitable! I've said it before and I'll say it again--French people are utterly delightful. I was taken around the entire weekend, cooked Alsatian delicacies at every turn, offered delicious wine (even by Lio's grandparents), and at the end of my trip Lionel's wonderful mother gave me a bottle of special Alsatian wine (Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf. *cough* Sure sounds German!) and Christmas cookies to take home with me and share with my family! I couldn't have asked for a better time.

It felt as if I hadn't seen Lolo (her nickname) for months, not for over a year-and-a-half. We gossiped about all of our mutual friends, talked about our jobs and families, and slipped right back in to the easy friendship that we all enjoyed back in Swansea. It was fabulous. We even met up with another friend, Simon, in Strasbourg. I was disappointed that our good friend Marielle couldn't make it, though, nor my German ex-boyfriend Daniel, and Lio's best friend Benoit (who's working in Luxembourg for PriceWaterhouseCoopers now). Lio, Benoit, and Daniel all lived together (with Simon across the hall), and when Daniel and I started dating Lio and Lolo met. So yes, once again, I am responsible for their current happiness!

They're so adorable it's shocking. Together for almost two years now (just like my other Swansea friends Allison & Ben and Steven & Emma, whom I also set up). They're waiting until Lio finishes school before getting an apartment. And then--a big French wedding! Lionel's family has started to make hints, and his parents are giving them kitchen supplies for Christmas. A subtle prod? Maybe, but in a cool way. It's gotta be hard still living with his parents--I know I couldn't do it, and certainly not with a significant other, but they all get along perfectly. Ahhh...

I wonder if it's having a small family that does it, but Lionel has an enviably close relationship with all four of his grandparents. As I'm one of 13 on my dad's side (with 14 or 15 great-grandkids), my grandmother was never that close to me. And with 23 or so grandkids on my mom's side (and soon, four great-grands!), my grandpa has never been able to give individualised attention. But it was so cute visiting Lio's grandparents on Saturday night, who were babysitting his one-year-old cousin Tristan. He's starting to learn both Alsatian and French, and everyone wonders which he'll start speaking first.

But enough of this chatter! You want to know what I did, right? Well, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves and just give a quick tour. You might want to take a look at this map of Alsace, which shows the Vosges Mountains and the towns we visited, many of which are on the Wine Road of Alsace.

FRIDAY

Friday afternoon, visited Mont Sainte Odile, the patron saint of Alsace. Perched upon a 2,500-ft cliff, it commands a sensational view. We could hear the monks singing in the chapel as we gazed on the twinkling lights of the little towns scattered below.

Strolled around the oh-so-cute town of Obernai, completely decked out for Christmas, and enjoyed some 'le vin chaud.' I think the leaders of London's boroughs should be flown to France--then they'll know how to put up Christmas decorations the way it should be done!

Dinner: Lionel's mother (who can speak perfect English!) cooked a delicious meal of choucroute (sauerkraut) in a pastry, mixed with creme fraiche. It was complemented with terrines, a cheese course (I had to have Munster, as it's Alsatian), and quetsche yoghurt for dessert. If anyone knows what quetsche is, let me know--it's good!

SATURDAY

We journeyed through cute towns and up winding mountain roads to the incredible castle of Haute Koenigsbourg. The pictures Lio took don't do it justice--it's immense, taking up four hectares (whatever that is), and looks out above the low-level clouds above the valley. It was amazing driving close to Les Vosges and having Laurence point it out, silhouetted against the clouds: I imagined what it would be like in the Middle Ages, seeing the awesome power of the lords who could build a castle in so high a place.

In the quaint village of Saint Hypollite (where the new Miss France hails), we ate a hearty Alsatian meal of baeckoffa (meat and veg stew--delicious!) with Pinot Blanc. I topped it off with ice cream soaking in pear schnapps. They call it "eau de vie" ("water of life"), and Lio's grandfather makes his own. Nowhere have I seen more--or stronger--varieties!

Then off to Kaysersberg, an adorably cute down, but I'm sorry to say the most tourist-ridden place I've ever been. There were buses upon buses and the Christmas market was so crowded that we decided to continue along the Wine Road. But I got to see some storks! In a nest! And one of them flew! Alsace is the only place they live in France, and you can buy stuffed animal storks everywhere. I resisted the temptation to give one to my brother as a Christmas present.

Then it was a stop at Lio's grandparents, which I already talked about above. I attempted to communicate with his grandmother, and occassionally said an entire sentance in French that she understood without translation. No, really--I think my French was starting to come back a lot. If I can stay here longer I'll take courses at night. It's such a nice language!

Back home, we got the Alsation version of pizza, which meant that Lio left with his own baking gloves and came back with a huge metal tray of brieli. It was creme fraiche and onions, with bits of meat--and delicious! And only made in Geispolsheim! How about that for regional food. Just give the U.S. another 500 years and see where we are... Probably with more regional hot dogs and that's it!

Then we chilled by watching the Miss France programme, which was fascinatingly different than ours. The girls wore matching swimsuits, not once but twice. And they were only asked one question and didn't have a platform. Oh, and their pre-contest bonding was in Tunisia.

SUNDAY

After our mini-jaunt to Germany, we met our friend Simon in Strasbourg, where he lives. He's quite the character--lived in French Guyana for years and when I knew him in Swansea complained about France all the time. But he likes it now, and who can blame him?

I had my first experience with the whole buying/validating tickets thing, and we headed to the market. Established in, oh, 1570. You know, so not too old or anything. The whole town is like that--it looks fake it's so old looking. The cathedral was started in 1190. Yeah. Basically we just walked along--see the photos, especially of Petite France, the original settlement by the L'Ille River--and admired the buildings. And teased poor Theresa about her country not even being discovered at the time of the houses being constructed. I wasn't sure when the first official settlement at North America was, but it was certainly much after Strasbourg was a prosperous cathedral town!

I had been told by everyone that Strasbourg has an excellent Christmas market, but was unprepared for there being tiny markets scattered all throughout the city. Amazingly fun! And the catherdral--it was massive, immense, indescrible. It was my very first French cathedral, and I'll remember it always. Especially since it only has one tower (according to Lionel, because it started sinking into the march upon which it was built, so they had to quit).

We rounded off the evening with crepes (sweet and savory!), and I tried my hand at ordering. I think I'm all set for Paris. And then, after a stop by the European Parliament so I could see it, it was back home, where we sat around the woodstove and Lionel's mother opened a wooden chest to reveal every alcohol known to man, an insisted I imbibe some French Contreau before going to bed. I obliged--after all, I'm in training for Friday!


So that was that. Flying home Monday morning I felt odd. I was expecting the same feeling of sheer relief as the last time I went from France to Britain. That was after almost a month of not being in an English-speaking country, and I was in the euphoric stage reached by study abroad students halfway through their sojourn, where I felt I knew everything there was to know about living in Britain. I'm not so cocky nowadays, nor was I gone long enough to truly miss it. But what I did take away was the wish to live in more countries. I love--I absolutely adore--all of the little details that make up daily existence, that residents take for granted. Just remembering all of the little things that stuck out on my last trip to France... the salle de bains being different than the W.C....the signs showing a village's name crossed out when you leave the town precincts (also in Germany!)...the tiny stoplights below the main ones...the specially-pruned trees you'll only find in France.... And I love the contrast of the French lifestyle to the American: grandparents giving out alcohol isn't something most grandparents I know would do, and most of my American friends' parents don't go away to a chateau/spa for the weekend. Then again, that's possibly because we don't have any. And never will.

So yeah. J'adore France.

Thanks for reading.

Theresa